Vienna – A City That Stays With You

“Almost everyone who visits Vienna for the first time is enchanted and cannot resist the charm of this city.”
– from Und Wien leuchtete by Henny Arlan

What was true then remains true today. Vienna is more than a city – it’s a mindset, a sound, a memory, and each time, a new feeling. No wonder we’ve been coming back here again and again for over three decades.

Vienna is always worth the trip. It’s a feeling, a melody, a presence. Between coffee houses, grand libraries and fiaker rides, the city tells its stories – quietly, elegantly, and with a touch of wistful charm.

In this story, we take you through personal moments, elegant balls, fragrant Buchteln, and a peaceful walk through the Central Cemetery.

Vienna stays – and maybe a little piece of it will stay with you too.

Imperial flair on a grand square – the Hofburg at its most majestic.

Of Mizzi, Memories, and Our First Time in Vienna

My grandmother Mizzi lived in Vienna for many years – as a young woman, she was “in service,” as she used to say. Whether she truly was Viennese or simply wanted to be remains her little secret. But when she spoke of “Wean,” there was a glimmer in her eyes – a mix of warmth, affection, and a fine touch of longing.

Paper, patina, and a trace of the past – Katzer preserves Vienna’s charm and beauty.

 

With her stories and her dialect, I grew up – like with a distant melody that had long become part of my everyday life. I knew early on what a real Zuckergoscherl was – and that it’s best not to shake the Watschnbaum if you want to stay out of trouble.

Vienna was always there – a place of longing that still felt familiar. And yet, decades passed before our paths truly crossed. Quietly, without fanfare, but with a gentle smile. As if we had always known each other.

Since then, we’ve returned again and again. We wander through the city – aimlessly, openly, as Vienna demands. And sometimes, it’s these quiet things that stay: a courtyard in evening light, the sound of a violin from an open window, a conversation with a waitress that says more than any guidebook.

Grace & Rhythm – In the Heart of Ball Season

And yet, Vienna also knows how to shine – with rhythm, tradition, and a certain sparkle. Especially during the ball season, which lasts from November 11th until Shrove Tuesday: time for “Alles Walzer.” Around 450 balls take place in this period – from A for Akademikerball to Z for Zuckerbäckerball.

And us? We’re right in the middle of it all.

A staircase into elegance – entering the Officers’ Ball in full style.

 

Every year we receive a stylish Viennese invitation to the Officers’ Ball – and dancing at the Hofburg remains one of our personal highlights. A night of music, etiquette, and timeless Viennese elegance.

The dress code is strict: white tie. Tails, bow tie, a full-length gown. And yet it’s far from stiff – at least not after the first glass of champagne and a quick sausage snack in between. When we stroll back to the hotel in the early hours, it feels as if the city belongs to us alone, just for a moment.

A waltz for eternity – music that flows through marble halls and gets hearts dancing.

Vienna’s Coffee Houses – Solitude in Good Company

“In the coffeehouse sit people who want to be alone, but need company to do so.”
– Alfred Polgar

Vienna without its coffeehouses? Unthinkable. For us, they’re more than a rest stop – they’re places of arrival, reflection, and deep breaths.

You can just be. Read. Write. Sit in silence. No one interrupts. No one asks if you’d like anything else. If you’re in a hurry or ordering to go, you’re in the wrong place – and will miss the magic entirely.

The coffeehouse is living room, stage, and sanctuary all at once. Figures like Altenberg, Polgar, Schnitzler, and Klimt were regulars. Peter Altenberg even had his mail delivered to Café Central – and anyone who’s sat there understands why instantly.

An honorary seat for Peter Altenberg – Café Central, where literature, coffee, and time blend together.

Café Hawelka is full of patina and stories – and in the evenings, the scent of fresh Buchteln baked from Josefine Hawelka’s recipe fills the air. What could be better?

“I wouldn’t be Hawelka without my wife…”
– Leopold Hawelka

And by the way: If you simply order “a coffee” in Vienna, you’ve already lost. The kitchen will just shout “a random one” – no soul, no style. But if you embrace the variety – Einspänner, Verlängerter, Melange – you’ll understand: here, coffee isn’t about thirst. It’s about character.

At the Central Cemetery – Quiet Paths Full of Life

“Death must be a Viennese.”
– Georg Kreisler

Vienna and death – a special relationship, marked by dark humor and curious serenity. The Central Cemetery is more than a final resting place. It’s a park of stories. Nearly two and a half square kilometers. Three million souls. And yet: peaceful. Still.

Here lie Mozart (symbolically), Beethoven, Brahms, Falco, Udo Jürgens – and countless others. Between weathered headstones and birdsong, we walk. We sit on stone benches. We listen to the wind. And we feel: this is not only the past. Something lives here still.

A quiet path through Vienna’s Central Cemetery – where memory and life coexist.

Typical Vienna – Our Very Own Moments

A fiaker ride – yes, we did it. To the horror of our Viennese friends. For them, it’s a no-go. For us: a charming memory, with a slight touch of kitsch.

Yes, we did it – a fiaker ride through historic streets, kitsch and charm included.

A Heuriger in Grinzing, with Schrammelmusik and gravel crunching underfoot. Time stretching gently.

Art at the Mumok, the Albertina, the Heidi Horten Collection – modern, light, and full of Vienna.

Emotion preserved – anatomical art from the Josephinum, where science and humanity meet.

A winter walk with hot punch, pork lard bread, and sparkling Christmas lights.

And the State Hall of the National Library – a palace of books that takes your breath away.

A temple of books – the State Hall of the Austrian National Library, majestic and silent.

Cuisine – Between Beisl and Ballroom

Tafelspitz at Plachutta. Wiener Schnitzel at Landtmann. Apple strudel at Café Central. All classics.

But: Vienna’s flavor is not just on the plate – it’s in the time you take. In conversations. In staying awhile.

Tafelspitz at its finest – Plachutta’s classic dish with root vegetables and creamy apple horseradish.

 

We especially love the Beisln – simple taverns, wood-paneled and honest. With goulash, potato-lamb’s lettuce salad, and a waiter who calls you “du” and still feels welcoming. A Beisl is like a look behind the curtain – an evening where you’re not a guest, but part of it all.

Hotel Stories – With a Midnight Twist

Last time, we stayed at the Grand Hotel Vienna – elegant, plush, refined. Until the alarm went off. Twice. On two nights in a row: sirens, loudspeaker announcements, evacuation.

Viennese composure? Momentarily suspended.

For our final night – it was our 30th wedding anniversary – we moved to the Hotel Imperial. Peace, style, champagne. Just as we had imagined it.

Elegance with a legend – Hotel Sacher, where Viennese grandeur and sweet tradition live on.

Vienna Stays

“Vienna stays Vienna – and that may be the worst thing you can say about this city.”
– Alfred Polgar

This city doesn’t rush by – it lingers. In conversations. In moments. In us.

With every visit, our own Vienna story grows a little more. And sometimes, very quietly, I believe Mizzi is there too.

A doorway like a painting – Blumenhaus zum Dom enchants with floral charm and a touch of Viennese poetry.

A Few Practical Tips for Vienna

• Café Central: Get there early or reserve – a true Viennese experience with elegance and history.
• Central Cemetery: Visit in the morning – peaceful, atmospheric, and deeply moving.
• Albertina Modern: Inspiring modern art – and a welcome break on a rainy day.
• Beisl Tip: Try Zum Hagenthaler in the 8th district – hearty, local, and full of character.
• Ball Season: Book tickets well in advance – especially for the Officers’ Ball at the Hofburg.
• Winter charm: Avoid the crowded markets – head to Spittelberg for punch, charm, and less chaos.