From Hyden to Esperance – and a Culinary Misstep

Before heading off to Esperance, our next leg of the journey, it’s time to restock. At a little shop in Hyden, we grab snacks and drinks. An insulated cooler bag – absolutely vital in 40°C Australian summer – is found at the hardware store around the corner. Practical!

And of course: no good morning without coffee. The historic “Bush Bakehouse” café looks promising – charming, inviting. A sign at the entrance greets us:

“If you come in, be patient – otherwise, stay outside.”

Message received. And yes, we stay.
The croissants go into a paper bag – and then, bag and all, into the microwave. The result: hot and… soggy.
The cappuccino takes its time, and when an elderly man finally calls out a number, we hear “thirty-seven”. Or maybe “seven”?
Our number is eleven.
Only when he announces “Cappuccino with soy milk,” it clicks: it’s ours!

Just when we were proud of our Aussie slang skills – we’re totally lost in translation again.

Hyden – Esperance: 382 km | approx. 4 hours

The drive takes us through the soft expanse of the Wheatbelt. Long, dead-straight roads stretch to the horizon. We often drive in total solitude.

Occasionally, a few black cows appear by the roadside – the only sign of life in all that stillness.

Arrival in Esperance – and a Cottage to Ourselves

Eventually, hidden in the bushland, we arrive at Esperance Chalet Village – our home for the next four days.
Check-in? Easy! Door open, key on the table. Couldn’t be better.

One Evening, One Lamb – and One Hard Lesson

Hungry and tired, we head out to find food. Just around the corner: a small brewery with great reviews.
Reinhold opts for pizza – solid choice. I? Not in the mood for dough, so I spontaneously pick the daily special: “Crispy Lamb.”
Big mistake.

What lands on my plate is more like a meat brick – shredded, pressed, over-roasted. Somewhere between a briquette and a fossil.

And apparently, the lamb had spent too much time out of refrigeration…
The result: a night I’ll never forget – sadly, not in a good way.

 

To top it off, our bed is in a loft under the roof. The bathroom? One floor down – reachable only via a steep chicken ladder.
Coordination + speed = survival.

Moral of the story?
Never trust pressed lamb.

Back on Our Feet – and in the Sand

After 24 intense hours, we’re more or less recovered.
Reinhold has caught a slight cold (thank you, air-con), I’m back on my feet.

 

Time for what really heals: sand underfoot, sun on skin – and just breathing.

Esperance – Where the Sea Steals Your Breath

Esperance is a charming coastal town, no doubt. But the real stars lie a few kilometers outside – some of the world’s most beautiful beaches.

Cape Le Grand National Park

Wild cliffs, snow-white sand, turquoise water – picture-postcard scenes, live and in color.
Here you’ll find the famous Lucky Bay – officially Australia’s whitest beach. With a bit of luck, kangaroos hop right by.
Early risers are rewarded!

Lucky Bay – turquoise meets rock. A place that creates space – to breathe, wonder, and dive in.

Great Ocean Drive

38 kilometers of pure magic. Breathtaking views, dramatic coastline – every stop is a highlight.
Perfect for letting your soul wander (and your camera overheat).

So far, so quiet. A beach that says everything – without a word.

The Whistling Rock – Nature Speaks

In Thistle Cove, the wind shapes a rock that – no joke – actually whistles!
A quirk of nature that leaves us speechless.
There’s also an ancient Dreaming story of the Nyungar people:

Two children who broke a promise were carried off into the sea by the great eagle Walich. Since then, their voices are heard in the wind…

Whistling Rock – where wind, stone, and silence become a natural symphony.

Little Hellfire Bay

“Easy walk,” says the sign in the car park. Sounds harmless – but isn’t.
Two kilometers through shimmering heat, birds everywhere, temperatures well over 30°C.
Still recovering from yesterday, this “walk” becomes a challenge.

But: at the end awaits a deserted bay – a view that makes it all worthwhile.

Pink Lake – No Longer in the Pink

The famous pink lake has lost its color.
Once bubblegum pink, now… more elegantly pale.
The reason: a disrupted ecosystem due to salt harvesting and changing water levels.
The pink hue was the work of sensitive microorganisms – and they’ve disappeared.

 

 

The journey continues – stay tuned

➡️ Denmark to Nannup – Rock Pools, Road Trains and Chicken Salt