Between Mount Etna and Aperitivo – Our Journey Through Sicily, Malta & Pompeii

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Hamburg – Catania: A Delayed Start and Too Many Snacks

Our flight was supposed to leave at 11:40 am. But as we made our way to the airport, Eurowings sent us a little surprise: schedule change!

New departure time: 2:50 pm.

Flying really isn’t what it used to be…

We passed the time at Mövenpick – and steadily expanded our food log: 2 cappuccinos, water, cola, cheese and ham sandwiches, poppy seed cake…

Even the Yogurette bars, which were meant for “later in Sicily”, didn’t make it past the wait.

But knowing Reinhold, there’s still a backup stash in the backpack.

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Night Drive to Pozzallo – and One Truck Too Many

It was already late when we finally picked up our rental car in Catania.

Ahead of us: 115 km of dark, rainy roads, poor visibility, and narrow lanes.

Then came the truck that tailgated us aggressively through a long construction stretch…

We couldn’t help but ask: “Why are we even doing this?”

At Hotel Danieli in Pozzallo – family-run and cozy – they were already waiting for us.

One night here.

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A Detour to Malta – Between Seasickness and Awe

From Pozzallo, we took the ferry to Valletta. Two hours across – long enough for me to get seasick.

The pill helped – but knocked me out cold. I spent half the journey with my head on the table.

We stayed at Palazzo Paolina Boutique Hotel and had breakfast the next morning in the building’s ancient catacombs – quirky and charming.

Then: we explored Valletta.

Fortress walls, narrow alleys, golden stone. A real Caravaggio in the cathedral.

We walked, marveled, rested – Aperol on a sunny square.

Impressions from Valletta

Streets with sea views, quiet corners with art – and history whispering from every stone.

 

And the next morning: back to Sicily.

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Back From Malta – Familiar, Relaxed, and Very Much Alive

Back from Valletta – traveling light, since we’d left the rest (plus the car) at Hotel Danieli.

One more night here, now already familiar.

This time: no rush. A slow breakfast in the morning sun, a quick chat with two adventurous 90-year-old Australians – and the lovely feeling of already knowing a place, just a bit.

Valletta was impressive – but somehow, our hearts had stayed behind in Sicily.

It’s good to be back.

As the ladies from Down Under hop on their bus to Rome, we hit the road again.

Next stop: 400 km south – via Tropea to Salerno.

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Airbnb Adventures – Between Plastic Flowers and a Perfect View

Salerno. A lesser-known port town – and that’s what makes it interesting.

In April: hardly any tourists, but a whole lot of real Italy.

We stayed with Manuela, high above the city. Accessible only via a dusty road through an old quarry. Meeting point: Esso gas station. Manuela leads the way – we follow in a cloud of dust.

The accommodation? Let’s call it decorative. Plastic flowers in vases, Chinese fans, a fireplace built into a wardrobe – somewhere between kitsch and culture.

But the view over Salerno? Breathtaking.

Salerno from above – the view from our Airbnb terrace. Between olive trees, steep hills, and the azure sea: a postcard version of Italy. 

 

The old town? Authentic, charming, Italian.

We had fresh fish at a tiny trattoria. No frills – just perfect.

We stayed two nights – not by accident.

The old town of Salerno – colorful houses right by the sea. Fishing boats on the shore and the quiet charm of an Italian afternoon.

 

From here, it’s just a stone’s throw to Pompeii.

And that’s our next big stop.

➡️ To our Pompeji Post
Pompeji. When the Sky caught Fire

 

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Back in Sicily – Cefalù, Caprese & a Lighthouse

Back on the island. First stop: Cefalù.

We met up with Gerd and Karin – enjoying a two-week break from northern Germany.

An evening of good company in a rustic trattoria. Laughter, stories, Sicilian wine – a perfect reunion.

People, places, moments. From stone houses and lush hills to wine and laughter – scenes that stay with you.

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Next morning: a quick stop in Enna – high up, nearly in the clouds.

Tip: Enna is the highest provincial capital in Sicily – with sweeping views and a mighty fortress.

Then we headed to the east coast – to Acireale, a sleepy little coastal village between Taormina and Catania.

Our Airbnb? A lighthouse!

Our lighthouse Airbnb in Acireale – overlooking the Ionian Sea.

A rooftop terrace, spiral stairs, blooming bougainvillea – a place where time stands still.

Not for the pasta-bellied: the stairs are narrow.

Luckily, our diet mostly consists of Caprese, white wine, and Limoncello.

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Carlo, the Beetle and the Great Misunderstanding

Our host Carlo – polite, somewhere between 75 and 85 – serves us Limoncello on the terrace.

He worked for Siemens in Milan for 40 years.

Proud owner of a perfectly kept VW Beetle – polished lovingly every Sunday with his best friend.

We don’t speak the same language – but somehow, we understand each other just fine.

Warm, cheerful, human.

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Taormina – Just for a Day

➡️ To our Taormina Post
Taormina. A Day in the Glow of Antiquity

 

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Etna for the Finale – And What a Finale

The Etna, finally cloudless – a dramatic finale. Black lava, white peaks, a sky that seems painted.

 

Taormina was supposed to be our last stop.

But then Reinhold said: “We could go to Mount Etna. It’s just around the corner.”

And so we did – and were rewarded. Early start, 2°C at the top, 17 km of serpentine roads. But the setting? Unforgettable.

Black lava fields, views of the crater, the sea in the distance. We skipped the cable car and bus – one side crater was enough. And what a sight.

A moment out of time – a shepherd with his goat on black lava.

Black lava, snowy peaks, crater views and vast silence – our Etna gallery shows the raw beauty of this unique volcano.

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Conclusion: Italian Chaos & La Dolce Vita

Our last day in Sicily.

Everything went surprisingly well. Mostly. Our GPS sometimes got creative – but we always found our way.

Maybe because Reinhold drew each route by hand every evening – Paper, pen, Coke Zero – and the plan for tomorrow was done.

No faith in Google Maps, but a keen instinct for turns, gradients, and improvised parking spots. A bit crooked, never to scale – but always drawn with heart.

Our patience with Italian drivers? Pretty close to the edge. Turn signals? Overrated. Right of way? Optional. Bumpers? Often held together with tape.

But maybe that’s what makes travel so special. The chaos, the detours – and the memories that remain.

Because: Travel teaches. Somehow. Always.