Southern France – Obstacles, Heart and Pan Bagnat

A new visit to the Côte d’Azur

Our arrival in Nice starts with a bang – and an unexpected stop. We don’t get further than the airport exit. The way to the parking lot is sealed off: an abandoned piece of luggage has triggered an alarm. Security protocol. Waiting. And hoping. After half an hour, we get the green light – no explosives, just a forgotten bag. Welcome to the Côte d’Azur!

Only later do we realize we’ve landed alongside 56 heads of state and government. What we only realize later: Today marks the opening of the 2025 UN Ocean Conference – and Nice feels like a political thriller set. Police checkpoints, sniffer dogs, drones overhead. For a moment, we wonder if we’ve accidentally walked onto the Côte d’Azur set of „House of Cards.”

That our master planner Reinhold missed this is… typical. Sure, the sky-high hotel prices this week made us wonder – but hey, it’s Nice. More importantly, we had a special reason to be here: our newborn grandchild.

A Seaside Interlude – Hotel Saint Paul, Nice

Slowing down with a view of the sea – Hotel Saint Paul is more than just a place to sleep. It’s a temporary home, nestled between sky, sea, and memories.

Our window is wide open. The sea is whispering, the murmur from the restaurant terrace drifts up to us – pure Mediterranean feeling. We’re staying at Hotel Le Saint Paul. It may not flaunt five stars, but it has a charm all its own.

Perched proudly above the shoreline, the hotel offers uninterrupted views of the sea. Just cross the road, and you’re in the water. The location is perfect – peaceful, yet within walking distance of central Nice. Behind the elegant facade lies a hidden inner courtyard – a colorful, quiet retreat with a trickling fountain. A little oasis, tucked away from the world.

Sure, we’ve stayed in hotels with wider beds, bigger rooms and more polished service. But never with a view like this. Wide open, undisturbed, unforgettable.

And then there’s the light. That unique Côte d’Azur light that softens everything and makes the ordinary feel magical.

Dining above the waves – Le Plongeoir offers Mediterranean cuisine with a view that steals the show.

Breathe deeply – the Côte d’Azur in full glory

Leaving the city behind, we drive about 12 kilometers along the scenic Moyenne Corniche, with its sweeping views of the sea, until we reach the medieval hilltop village of Èze.

We park outside the village walls and enter through a 14th-century gate – a true eagle’s nest of stone. Winding lanes, vaulted passages, stairs and small terraces. It’s a place that seems to whisper stories of the past.

Former sheep stables now house artists and craftspeople, their studios offering a glimpse into the region’s rich heritage. We stroll past honey-colored walls, flower-filled urns and shuttered windows. A feast for the senses.

Time-worn walls and twisted branches – a poetic corner of Èze full of quiet charm.

Closed shutters and wild planters – a quiet window scene that tells its own story.

A narrow cobblestone alleyway winds through Èze’s old town, framed by ancient walls and trailing vines.

The Devil’s Bridge – Legend and Stone

The Viaduct of Èze (Pont du Diable), stretching boldly across the ravine—where myth and engineering meet.

The Viaduct of Èze, known locally as the Pont du Diable, spans a deep ravine northwest of the village. Legend has it that a shepherd asked the devil to build the bridge in exchange for the soul of the first being to cross it. Once completed, he tossed a stick – and his dog crossed first.

In reality, the bridge with its eight arches was built starting in 1914. It took three years to complete and now forms part of the Moyenne Corniche road.

The Exotic Garden of Èze – A Garden in the Sky

We climb higher through narrow, labyrinthine streets. At the very top, 400 meters above sea level, lies the Jardin Exotique d’Èze.

Cacti, succulents and other exotic plants cling to the rocks, with stunning views of the coastline. The garden path spirals upward like a three-tiered cake, offering views of the sea, the mountains, and the village below.

At the top terrace, the world goes quiet. The sun warms our faces. And suddenly, we doze off – at 1 pm, under the Mediterranean sky.

High above the Mediterranean, the Exotic Garden of Èze is a dreamlike blend of nature and art. Amidst towering cacti and dramatic cliffs, statues emerge like guardians of serenity. Every path, every vista opens up to the sky and sea — a botanical escape with a poetic soul.

The Nietzsche Trail – Not Today

A path between sky and earth – the Chemin de Nietzsche winds through wild greenery down to Èze-sur-Mer.

There’s one more option for the adventurous: the Sentier Nietzsche, a 5-km trail linking Èze Village to Èze-sur-Mer. It’s steep, rocky and intense – so we decide to skip it. For today.

Instead, we head back to Nice – ready for a local specialty.

Pan Bagnat – Nice in a Sandwich

Back in town, we treat ourselves to the city’s beloved dish: Pan Bagnat – literally “soaked bread,” originally the fishermen’s lunch.

A round roll filled with tuna (or anchovies), tomatoes, onions, olives, hard-boiled eggs, radishes, white beans and basil – generously drizzled with olive oil. Essentially, Salade Niçoise in a sandwich.

Best enjoyed with a chilled glass of local rosé – and a moment to savor the Mediterranean way of life.

A taste of Nice between two halves of bread – Pan Bagnat. Simple, soulful, unforgettable.

Heart and Pan Bagnat are not the end – just the beginning.

Edith writes at wanderlust-knows-no-age.com
Travel, memories & champagne – that’s her world.
As a 70+ blogger with curiosity in her heart, she shares stories about journeys that matter and places that linger.
Always by her side: Reinhold – calm compass and loyal co-traveller – and a touch of self-irony.